I will put it in nuetrul, start the car, put it in drive, and all is fine. I appreciate your help and input. I'm going to fix what the mechanic said and i will let you guys know it that's the solution. Cam sensor was reading a fluctuating 4. In addition, when atctivated, the security shuts off the fuel injector pulse, not the fuel pump. I did have the resitance wrong, but it is right now. It has been having this problem since a week or two after going into storage.
If the idle changes, you are spraying where the leak is sucking air in. If it doesn't work then check the fuses and the cooling fan relay. I see what you mean about it being something else. Question: does the alternator truly run the car solely during operation as I've heard? I have had a problem with the car turning off for the past couple of weeks. This situation has me so frustrated. I also removed my park neutral switch and cleaned it out. Still no check engine light, either.
So, after new plugs, which had to be over 60k-75k miles overdue, and looked it, new premium wires, a new battery, and some replaced vacuum line hose fittings, it now runs 10x worse than before the replacements. This morning he drove it to work again and it didn't go dead any. I don't have a noid light. I suspect that the AntiTheft Deterrant option is not installed on the car. Sometimes if I put it in neutral, it will crank right back up, but sometimes it won't and I have to try to coast over to the side of the road with no power steering.
There is also a build up of carbon called coking; it is behind the throttle plate. Hubby's gonna drive it to work the next few days to see if it stalls any with him. The thing didn't go dead any, of course, for him to see if the test light went off. Have you thought about getting your alternator tested? There is a cool thread here about changing the cam sensor magnet without disassembling the whole front of the engine but I can't find it right now. And I will definitely tell him if his test light is long enough to fix it where he can see it while driving. I'll double check again tonight though and report back.
Obviously this isn't an especially safe or ideal thing to try when sitting on the side of the road, but it could be tried sometime when it is safe. LilZiP1 answered about a year ago 91 buick starting problems. Jim GreaseMonkey2 answered 7 years ago I'll keep that in mind. What could be my problem? When it seemed to die, it would lose power and the tachometer would drop to zero, but I don't think all of the dash lights came on like it had just been turned on afterwards. Like it had been soaked in acid briefly. We've let it idle and everything and it didn't go dead any.
I turned it off and let it sit about an hour or so, then cranked it again. This would cause all memories to be lost seats, radio, etc , but it might clear out whatever is keeping the car from starting. With the service engine soon light coming on and flashing and change oil light staying on and the red lights on my odometer for the battery, alternator, etc would all come on and go red. A few weeks ago, I ended up being stranded and had to be towed. Hubby's gonna drive it to work the next few days to see if it stalls any with him. I don't know if this helps, but may guide you toward the problem. Your owner's manual should tell you where the fuse and cooling fan relay are.
But, it's at least a cheap part, but probably not a fun job for my hubby. Common Problems The Passlock family has two basic relearn procedures—a ten-minute procedure and a thirty-minute procedure—and which one you use depends on the system and what components have been replaced. Ultra, 3800 Super Charged, 163k miles. He heard the fuel pump kick on and said that it would crank and it did. Thank you very much for all the replies. If you have the radio it does not affect the radio at all. Depending on the system, replacement of key components will necessitate that a relearn procedure be completed.
Is this acceptable or does it indicate another problem? Would anything to do with that cause there to be no fuel pressure there on the fuel rail and then turn the key on a couple of times, the fuel pump kicks on and then it will crank. The new fuel pump came with a new wiring harness thingy. Ignition coil and module 2. Does that mean that it has finally set a code? I'm about ready to take over to the south side of town, drop it off with the keys in it and report it stolen lol Are you talking about the red light were it displays the car battery volts? This is a maintenance procedure and should be done at every tune up. The garage done a diagnostic and said the Throttle Sensor was bad. It shifts through all the gears normally.
He was trying to listen and see if it shut off right before the car died, but the car never died! Put it in gear and just as I applied light pedal it acted like it wanted to die, horribly. Keep in mind, the light will only tell if you have power as far as where the test light is connected, not beyond. Of course, even if it worked, I don't know what that would tell you. Thanks for an honest rating and for using FixYa. I tested my alternator at idle, and here's what I found: Output voltage was 14. The fuel pump wiring has its ground there. So I got back out, unplugged the pigtail, and everything was great again.