Power Out of The ignition switch has a pink wire that is supposed to be Batt+ in run, bulb test and start. There are no screws on the thin part above the glove box, but be very gentle with it. Replace front nuts 1 turn and push seat all the… Its under the glove box under the cover up in the dash next to a casing that's round. I have replaced the Key Lock Cylinder with new resistance key, with the same results. Once the wood trim pieces are removed, next you'll remove the … vents from the black trim of the dash.
Therefore, you must perform other diagnosis to determine the cause. The security light is off, could my problem still be security? Can the security module be bypassed? It provides the 12 volts to initiate the holding circuit to allow the starter motor to turn the engine. The start relay I pushed in is in the engine compartment fuse box with the fan relays and fuel pump relay. Girl in photo, yeah, I'll keep that to myself. It starts and runs now!! The diagram and a couple pix of the area in question on my car are attached. Now, use an M10 socket to remove 3 bolts on the underside of the lower dash, and 1 bolt and 3 nuts on the top front of the lower dash panel.
If you do have current; the starter is bad. I loosened and retightened the positive cables on the battery and the negative at the battery. The other large cable is a ground cable. The bell housing or what looks like a hard plastic cover may be blocking your view, remove them first with socket wrench or pliers. Attach the electrical connectors to the starter, as tagged during removal.
Sounds like you have an ignition switch problem. They towed the car back home and had someone else replace it. Push solenoid and spring onto starter and rotate into position. The starter goes into the engine by way of flywheel which it turns. The start relay is also controled by the Pass Key decoder module. Place the starter in position, then install the starter-to-engine bolts and tighten to 1 ft. I moved relays around using the fan relays as a test.
Thanks, Pop Please or to join the conversation. If equipped, unfasten the flywheel inspection cover bolts and remove the cover. The starter enable relay is not at this location. The cover was broken and I was able to remove it from the relay. I tried to tighten that one but it seems tight. You may want to tag them first to avoid confusion.
A failing operating coil can take a fuse, and flashover deposits from arcing or moisture in the relay housing can be conductive, causing overcurrent. To reinstall the dash, simply reverse the procedure. The security light may or may not start flashing. He'd mentioned oil getting into solenoids on these from oil pan drips cause trouble. That would have been the easy fix.
Anyone have a schematic or know where I should look? They will pop out although you might need a screwdriver to wedge in behind if they don't come right out. Don't bother running that line. Have looked for bad wires and so forth. I intend to check connections of all three wires at starter and look for engine ground and loosen and tighten that. Starter should slip out of flywheel area. The is on in the brief moment the car starts and, or however long I hold the key in the run position. Installation is reversed of removal.
Remove the starter-to-engine bolts, then carefully lower the starter from the vehicle. I drove a little more and then it stopped. They'll be connected at two points. Any other lights still on after that? Sometimes it takes it, not all times. So what ever gives this start relay power isn't giving it the coil voltage to pull it in. I have replaced the Key Lock Cylinder with new resistance key, with the same results.