Yes, I plugged the leads of my fluke meter in to the connector for the actuator and this is where I got the 13v from. How about four lo, you should definitely hear and feel that shift, as well as the gear reduction, does it continue to flash, or revert back to 2wd. Which wires what colors at what switch did you check? Both of these actuators make a distinctive noise motor noise when activated. I also tested the old actuator. Traced wires even replaced dash switch same problem. Tested the the pins on the connector, Brown 12v, black 0v-no ground.
They can make noise but be weak which sounds like what it happening. Wait three seconds, then observe transfer case switch status lamps. Heres where the red flag went up. I am guessing the actuator is a normally closed contact because with the I activated the 4wd there was no reading voltage. One set of wires went directly to the actuator switch and one set go above it on top of this front transfer case gear box. I have a jumping voltage gauge when the signals are on, either direction. Check for a chassis ground on the Black wire.
And the reason your putting the bolt or nut in there is to take up the space the actuator would normally would Push in. Ok, I put the truck in the garage where I could get some light on the situation. I also removed the t-case fuse per the instructions and switched the truck on and off 5 times. Many times, a mechanic is burdened unnecessarily due to obsolete or incorrect wiring schematics that are provided by incorrect resources. If its original that is most likely the problem. Very hard to drive in 4lo. If you hear both, more than likely the front spline disconnect assembly at the front axle is defective.
This is the switch you are talking about. The connector has ground in the middle and 12v on the left and right side. None of the diagrams contain what I'm looking for. If test light lights, replace front axle solenoid and proceed to next step. Is resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? After you put the bolt in the hole screw the actuator back in. Jerry Some things I forgot to mention.
Here is an old thread where I supplied a link to a great tutorial by a previous member: Check Post 6. I believe as a whole it is all there but it would take some time to open every section and pull the diagram to make one total complete. Ive had this blazer for about a month now its got about 25000 km on a new motor and the gas mileage has been terrible 9 -10 mpg average its alittle hard to start turns over quite a few times before starting but other then that it runs good and no codes. Taking it to local dealership tom to have it checked for codes. Any help would be appreciated, thx. They're raw diagrams with no indication as to what circuit you are looking at.
V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 180000 miles. I will paste instructions below for taking it out. It does not revert back to 2wd until the 2wd botton is pressed I let it flash for about 10min the night it started doing this. That will lock the front end. .
The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! A quick test would be to jumper the terminals of that switch together. Do the hubs lock with a solenoid or something or do they need input power from the front axle? We are interested to see what it is. If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. The hubs will not lock in. I also checked the fuse and it was good. So I was able to dig up a wiring diagram.
I am beginning to think the module itself is bad, but I would prefer not to just throw expensive parts at this. I figured I'd test ohms 567. Once you have it off you can jack the front end up put your finger inside of the hole where actuator goes. There is also a front axle switch that has a two wire connector, the same lght blue circuit as the actuator, and a black white hat looks like, in theory, should be grounded by the transfer case control module. Is it worth getting the codes pulled some where? Also here is the encoder location. I assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
At the actuator I am showing a two wire connector, a light blue wire and a black wire. I would even settle for a way to rig up four-wheel drive high with toggle switches if it were possible. If you go to O'ReillyAutoParts. Is that hard to replace? I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd. What do you think is going on with the flashing switchs. Remove T-case 20 amp fuse.