I found the tip of using aluminum foil to drape over the pipe worked extremely well allowing me to direct the draining oil effectively. Use an engine oil pressure tester kit and connect the gauge to this port. With the crank in this position, the bung was perfectly positioned. If it is easy to access without tearing everything apart, I think it would be wise to do it since the cover will be off anyway to reseal. No problem getting to them with socket wrench extension. That's the reason I'm doing this job in the first place.
If the transaxle falls it could be damaged or cause injury. I'm not sure why Red Line ditched the original formula but it was a pretty recent change. Apparently someone had tried to remove it at one point in time and failed only to succeed in damaging the alen bolt. I found it necessary to use long reach measuring calipers in order to accomplish this task. If possible, drain the pan, then put the plug back in, and let it sit overnight. The bung in the torque converter was extremely tight and the allen key bent before it finally shifted. You said K-1 kit, so I assume you mean new soft clutch plates.
Install in the reverse order of removal. Add the specified amount of specified transaxle oil. Updated May-2016 with my current comments. If you can leave the gasket attached to the pan without tearing, that will improve the chances of no leaks in that area. Also, did you drop the trans pan and replace the filter? I have been pulling trannys for 40 plus years so I have a little experience but when I got the 8 trans to bell housing bolts out I started prying and pulling and can't get this thing to budge. The factory procedure calls for removing the crossover pipe, and it's really not that hard - four bolts and it's off the one exhaust gasket can be re-used. When the converter is fully drained and pan has been removed for filter replacement, there really is no need to perform the painstaking fill procedure he describes on page 15.
Do not use cloths with fluff; leather cloths are particularly good to use. The Mercedes-Benz 4G-Tronic transmission was produced from 1981 to 1996 in 722. With dino fluid, I could tell a difference in shift quality past about 20kmi, and by 30kmi it was really noticeable shifting rather harshly. I now have about 78,000 miles. That's why this regurgitation came as a complete surprise. If you attempt this, expect a big mess even more than usual. The overflow from the oil pan was not too bad and I consoled myself with the thought that at least it was washing any dirt away rather than in.
Be very careful to not overfill, remember the level must be checked with the trans fully hot, not just warm. Remove the air cleaner component. If you have any questions, please call us at 818 782 2300 or E mail: sunvalleymercedes gmail. Final tip - do not overtorque the pan bolts! Hmmm, quite interesting maintenance plan. There is mention of a stripped alen removal tool in the.
The transmission mount seems to be making a small clunk as well. I discovered mine had too much clearance even after new soft plates were installed, so I purchased a slightly thicker end plate from the dealer to tighten it up a bit. The transmission mount seems to be making a small clunk as well. It looks like the nuts on the dark-side of the flange can be accessed after removing the fresh air delivery tube leading from the lower bumper intake to motor mount base , and reaching in thru the exposed cavity with an appropriate tool. Getting the cover plate and c-ring on while holding the spring down is kinda tough.
I checked my service records and the last fluid change was at the 60,000 mile service 3 years ago. Reuse of the straps may result in reduced clamp load on the universal joint cap. It is a bitch separating the trans from the bell housing, but the manual makes it sound like a piece of cake. I've attached an image here of the crank position, as viewed from the top of the engine, that might be useful to anyone doing the same thing. Use of a digital gauge is recommended for accurate measurement of the air pressure. I did some searching, but most people just said they handed it off to a mechanic. Throttle pressure cable slide adjustment: The slide type throttle pressure adjustment is as follows: Making the slide shorter increases the tension on the cable and causes the transmission to shift later.
It acts just like there is a bolt still in it somewhere. The K1 clutch uses smaller plates. I've never had a problem removing these pipes, on four different M119's now. And you have to drain the torque converter, which usually requires removal of the exhaust crossover pipe. Biggest thing will be making sure it does not leak and then adjusting the modulator to proper specs. You might also search some of my old posts about my journey into the B3 and K1, and the search for the best manual.
The clearance can be measured and if the band is not worn too greatly, adjustments can be made for compensation by installing longer thrust pins. But still coat it with gasket sealer when reassembling. On my 500E, the upper bolt heads are facing down. I was scared as hell that a primary seal failed. Biggest thing will be making sure it does not leak and then adjusting the modulator to proper specs.