Using a large spanner or socket, unscrew the pot … and gently remove away from the engine as it will be full of oil. Get some gearbox oil - they normally come in 500ml bottles that have a tube that pulls out. Clean off the remains of the old gasket. Squeeze oil from a soft plastic bottle fitted with a flexible tube into the filler hole, which is often hard to reach. The seal costs about £2 and is carried in stock by most dealers. A half hour job becomes half a day. I bought some stuff from the garage granted, Engine brand and it was R28 per liter Also they come in 500ml bottles.
You undo the side nut on the gearbox - it may be a 23mm - but it will be obvious which one it is. The correct level is the bottom of the filler hole when cold. Some cars need a long tube. If the drain plug has a washer, fit a new one. Then tighten it with the ratchet.
I'm reasonably competen … t and have plenty of tools. As much information that you could give would be great. The box holds around 3L of oil The Mazda i did last night holds 2. Because the gear oil is so thick, I recommend using the machine for awhile to get the oil flowing easier plus it stirs things up so all the contaminants come out. If you're not certain contact dealer, as they will know what goes in the car. Should the lube have a white, milky appearance, or pure water flow out, this indicates seal damage.
Chock the wheels remaining on the ground. Just unscrew this with a socket 24 mm and let the old fluid drain out. Lower the car and visit a shop for service in rare cases the transmission must be removed and taken to a machine shop. The oil level for the whole system is checked with the engine dipstick. If you have to add a lot to correct the level, check carefully for leaks See. A lesson on oil viscosity. Just done it after replacing my engine.
I usually use synthetic differential oil that you can buy at Advance Auto or Auto Zone. It's a heck of a messy job though unless you have done it before. Just done it after replacing my engine. You will need: - Jack and Axle stands or tire ramps to get your car off the ground - Set of wrenches and ratchet set depending on your vehicle. After all this rambling, I would just get 2 litres of the Vauxhall fluid and put it in.
Instructions refer to 94-99 M-T reg I think mines a N reg. I've replace plugs, filters, ect. The drain plug is the one on the bottom of the transaxle box along the bottom edge, facing the driver's side front wheel. Loosen the filler by selecting the proper wrench not an adjustable one! The transmission fluid must be brought up to operating temperature before draining. Before you do this, though, remove the plug on the upper side of the transmission case as A this will allow air to escape and B when gear oil comes out, you know it is full. Fitting a new one should cure the leak. Those users will then be dealt with accordingly.
A leak at the filler plug or drain plug is probably due to a damaged sealing washer. You can do it 'in-situ', remove the steering arm I think i'ts called a Pitman arm a few bolts and you'r at the seal. On a front-wheel-drive car, check the seals at the drive shafts. Although it had a 23mm bolt on it. Get yourself a manual as all of this is well detailed. This job involves removing the cambelt front cover, the cambelt andbottom pulley, finally the rear cambelt cover.
I know where and how. I feel like I should probably get mine changed anyway, the car has done 81k miles now. If there is a dipstick it will be marked with the recommended oil level. It would really depend on exactly what temperature you operated the engine at. . Thinner oil flows better but thicker oil lubricates better. A bit awkward to get at.