If it will fit through the hole in your rim, it will work. Autozone has them for rent. Now, remove the two 19mm bolts that hold the caliper mounting bracket to the hub, and remove the caliper mounting brackets. Use what you have, it should not require a impact. Tap in the new bearing, but only apply force to the inner race of the bearing the part that has text on it. Thankfully, this is actually a pretty easy job.
The rest is the reverse of the install. Finally, the bearing seized up and the wheel locked up while the car was at speed. October 10, 2015 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It should turn. Its normal for the disk to be a bit tight from oxidation around the hub, if it wont come off easily after removing the set screw, just give the disk a couple taps with a rubber mallet. You only need to get it on far enough for the wheel bearing nut to get started.
This is because the weight is shifting to the passenger's side of the car and off the dying wheel bearing. Luckily, no one was hurt, and no damage was incurred, but it could have been bad. Since you are reusing it, you will want to be careful with it. Reinstall everything opposite of removal. Drive the bearings as far as they will go onto the shaft.
If you want to race your car you need to invest in the necessary equipment to do the work. Make sure bearing is seated right up against the 'rear collar' on the shaft, can use the same socket that was used to loosen the 'lock nut' to tap bearing in place. Sit back and congratulate yourself for a job well done! You don't want this to happen. Information this page should be used at your own risk and discretion. You can find just the inner bearings and order them, but they are hard to find labeled specifically for this car. As you tighten the bolt, the back adapter will push the bearing towards the outside of the car into the sleeve. The collar nut is 36mm by the way, and you will need a standard thin walled socket.
Raise the front end and check for play in the wheel bearings. Make sure you re-bend the tab on the axle nut into the relief on the axle. Use a zip-tie or wire to suspend the brake caliper. I can not stress enough how important this inexpensive tool is! Once torqued, use a screwdriver to bend the tang into the axle shaft. This is similar to what it will look like all together. The rotors and pads are in great shape.
I only kicked it until I was able to get the axle nut on and tighten the nut. The collar nut requires a 36mm socket. As the bearing gets worse, the howling gets louder. Once the car has been jacked up and is firmly supported on jack stands, remove the lug bolts and pull the front wheels off. Depending on the condition of the bearing rear dust protector, you might want to replace it now Also, even though it is not necessary to remove the disc dust shield, this is a good chance to clean it and repaint it or replace it if necessary. I guarantee that nut is not under enough torque. Use a chisel and bend the locking tab on the collar nut down.
Hopefully between this and the penetrating lubricant, the race will come right off. I used a chisel to make two cuts to form a tab which I then bent into the notch in the spindle. Maybe someone with a regular E30 with scrap parts can confirm. This keeps the nut from backing out and causing your wheel to leave the rest of the vehicle. Unbend the nut with the screwdriver and hammer combo.
The bearings on both sides came off cleanly this time, but sometimes the inner race will stay stuck on the spindle. Support the brake caliper so the weight of the caliper is not being hung by the brake line. I know - up, down, up down. Because of this, the assumption that just turning the nut to the same place it was before removal is completely flawed. Go buy a proper torque wrench and stop endangering everyone else on the track with you.